Urtica dioica
When I first started gardening, I absolutely hated stinging nettle. I was living at a property with a huge patch of it growing directly across the path from my veggie garden, and those nettles didn’t like to stay put!
Frequently, I would be out peacefully weeding my beds and daydreaming – until I was jolted back to earth by an unexpected sting, the effects of which could last for hours.
I just could not understand why anyone wanted this plant around.
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And so I started learning. I just needed to know why my landlord insisted so strongly on maintaining that pesky nettle patch.
The more I researched, the more I began to change my tune on nettle.
I learned, for instance, that it is one of the most nutrient-rich native herbs known. It is safe for almost everyone, has a plethora of uses, and is actually quite delicious.
I am now a complete convert. In fact, it might just be my favorite herb yet!
Will it become one of yours? There’s one way to find out! Let’s learn more.
Here’s what’s to come in this article:
This versatile edible and medicinal herb is not often cultivated, but foraging it from the wild is certainly not your only option. Here’s how – and why – you should grow it at home.
Quick Look
Common name(s): Stinging Nettles
Plant type: Herbaceous perennial
Hardiness (USDA Zone): 3-10
Native to: Europe, Asia, North Africa
Season: Spring and fall
Exposure: Full sun, partial shade
Soil type: Average to rich, moist
Soil pH: 5-8, acidic to alkaline
Time to maturity: 80-90 days
Spacing: 8 inches
Planting depth: Surface
Mature size: 1-5 feet wide x 2-4 feet high
Water Needs: Moderate
Nettle, Urtica dioica, is an herbaceous perennial in the Urticaceae family that is often found growing wild in the understory of riparian zones, on the edges of meadows, in open forests, or in disturbed soils near pasture.
It has toothed opposite leaves along the stems, which are almost heart shaped, and very small flowers. It can grow from two to four feet tall at maturity. It spreads by vigorous creeping rhizomes, and often forms dense clusters.
Nettle plants are dioecious, which means they only produce either male or female flowers, not both. Perhaps this is why they were given the Latin name dioica, which means “two houses.”
Males have a stringier, compact cluster of flowers that tend to point outward. Females can be identified by dense, heavy flower clusters that may look like they are pulling the plant down.
Males and females grow adjacent to each other, and the flowers are usually wind pollinated.
Perhaps the most infamous identifying feature is the tiny stinging hairs, which can be found under the leaves and along the stems.
These are actually tiny hollow tubes known as trichomes.
You may have had the misfortune of experiencing the unpleasant sensation of accidentally brushing up against a plant, or pulling one up without gloves.
The action of disturbing the hairs breaks off the fragile silica tips, and the hair acts like a needle, injecting you with chemicals.
What causes that burning sensation?
Upon contact, the tiny needles pierce the skin and release chemicals including acetylcholine, formic acid, histamine, and serotonin, which trigger inflammation and pain that can unfortunately last for up to several hours.
Native in many places around the world, this herb can be found in north Africa, North America, Asia, and Europe. In some parts of the US, stinging nettle is considered an invasive weed due to its ability to self-seed and spread through its root mass.
It has been grown, foraged, and harvested for thousands of years. Documented accounts of its use date as far back as 1200 BC, and its uses are widespread.
Nettle fabric was used by Europeans and Native Americans for linens and sailcloth as early as the 16th and 17th century.
Today, it is still commonly used as a textile similar to hemp or flax. Fibers can be dried, pounded, and twisted into rope or cloth. The finished product can range from fine and soft to thick and rough.
In Germany it was used during the first half of the 20th century, often combined with cotton to make undergarments, stockings, and fabrics.
This valuable plant also has long been part of culinary and medicinal practices. In the US, there is a history of Native American use in food, medicine, clothing, and ceremonies.
Propagation
Nettle is easy to grow and can easily be started by seed indoors, or divided from existing patches.
You can find packets of 500 seeds available from Outsidepride via Amazon to get started.
Stinging Nettle Seeds
To prepare for planting, look for an area with rich soil and sufficient moisture. Nettle does especially well on the edges of meadows, pastures, or streams where the soil stays moist but isn’t waterlogged.
Selecting your site with future spread in mind is also advised. These are hearty perennials with a tendency to become invasive, so choose wisely. If you are concerned about spreading, consider confining it to containers.
Pick a place where you are certain that you want them, perhaps not directly next to your veggie patch!
From Seed
Seeds are very tiny and require light for germination.
In the spring, broadcast seeds and press them lightly into the soil or cover with a very thin layer of soil, only about a quarter of an inch at most. Plants can later be thinned to an inch apart.
From Seedlings or Transplants
Sow seeds in flats in late winter. Seeds should germinate in approximately 14 days. Transplant outdoors in early spring, as soon as the ground can be worked. Space seedlings about eight inches apart.
Division
If you have a friend with a thriving patch, ask if you can dig up a couple of plants in late fall and replant them in your yard. They will spread quickly, once they become established.
Or, why not find them in the woods? Nettles can also be foraged easily, and they grow as a weedy perennial all over the place.
If you can learn to properly identify them – which isn’t difficult if you touch them, but relying on visual cues is preferred! – you might realize that you already have some growing nearby that you can dig up and transplant to your garden.
Alternatively, if you do find a patch growing wild, you can gather the tiny seeds in early fall, once they have turned brown.
Just shake out a seed head into a jar or bag.
How to Grow
Stinging nettles are tough, tenacious, and incredibly rewarding to grow – assuming you give them a little respect.
Once established, nettles will spread quickly and return year after year, making them an excellent choice for a perennial patch in a neglected corner of the yard or a controlled raised bed if you want to contain their spread.
Here’s what you need to know to grow your own patch of stinging nettles:
Light
Nettles will grow in both full sun and partial shade, but they really thrive in areas with dappled or partial shade, particularly in hotter climates. In cooler zones, full sun is just fine.
If you’re after lush, leafy growth for harvesting, a bit of shade during the hottest part of the day will help maintain that tender foliage and prevent bolting too quickly.
Soil
Rich, loamy soil with plenty of organic matter is ideal. Stinging nettles love nitrogen, so soil that has been amended with compost or well-rotted manure is a good bet.
Drainage should be decent, but they will tolerate slightly heavier soils as long as it doesn’t stay soggy.
These plants thrive will tolerate soil with a wide pH range, anywhere from 5.0 to 8.0.
Water
Nettles prefer consistently moist soil, especially during their active growing season in spring and early summer.
If a spot is too dry, plants may struggle and will lack flavor, and may potentially lack some of their potency as an herbal remedy.
Keep the soil moist throughout the spring until you are done harvesting, after which time the plants will usually take care of themselves.
If you want, you can incorporate some leaf mulch around the plants to help retain moisture during dry spells.
Fertilizer
Unless you’re growing in poor or depleted soil, you likely won’t need to fertilize. But if your nettles are looking pale or the growth is slow, a nitrogen-rich fertilizer can give them a boost.
A side dressing of compost or a diluted liquid fish emulsion every few weeks in spring will support vigorous leafy growth.
Overwintering
Stinging nettles die back to the ground in the winter, but they’re hardy in USDA Zones 3 to 10. After the first frost, the aerial parts will yellow and die, but the roots remain alive underground.
There’s no need to cover or mulch the plants unless you’re in a particularly cold, dry region with minimal snow cover.
In early spring, cut back the dead growth to make room for new shoots to emerge.
Maintenance
Nettles don’t need much maintenance after harvest season, as they are very hardy and spread easily. Just harvest regularly to encourage new growth, and keep an eye on them in case they start to spread to areas where you don’t want them to grow.
You may choose to cut off the top third to keep plants from becoming too tall and toppling over.
After removing stalks, leave them to decompose on the ground around plants. This will return nutrients to the soil, and the added mulch layer will help retain moisture in the spring.
You can also cut off the flowering seed heads when they form, which will encourage a better crop next year, as less energy will be diverted to seed production. This may also help to reduce spreading if you are concerned about the patch getting away from you.
Over the winter the foliage will die back and the plants will go dormant, reemerging in spring.
Pests and Disease
Never mind worrying about pests and disease. Another benefit of growing stinging nettle is that it actually can reduce the risk of pest infestation for surrounding crops.
This is because it attracts various beneficial insects, and several butterfly species.
In a study by David James, associate professor of entomology at Washington State University, from 2011 to 2013 researchers monitored beneficial insect populations in U. dioica patches at three locations in the Yakima Valley.
Each year over the course of three years, they found 200 to 400 beneficial insects trapped in nettle plants at all three sites.
Insects found included predatory bugs, predaceous flies, parasitic wasps, and native bees.
It was concluded that nettle could be a great biological control for managing insect pests, and was recommended for use in vineyard habitat restoration and pest management, as well as for butterfly conservation.
Harvesting
Harvesting nettles can sound intimidating, but with a few precautions in mind, you won’t get any trouble from the pesky needles.
Just be sure to wear gloves, long sleeves and pants, and closed-toe shoes. Bring a basket, bucket, or paper bag, and a clean and sharp pair of scissors.
For food and making herbal remedies, harvest the foliage when the stems looks juicy, before flowering.
Once plants flower and start to look woody and fibrous, leaves become stringy and tough.
To harvest, cut back the top third of the plant, just above a node where leaves branch off, which will encourage new growth.
Be conscious about what you are doing. The needles are generally pointed downward, so work from the top of the plant downwards.
Much More than Just a Sting
Though seen by many as an irritating weed, nettles have been appreciated by foragers for a long time, and they are so much more than just a menace to be wary of.
When we take the time to appreciate their value and learn to handle them with care, nettles are really an incredible herb with so much to offer us.
If this article hasn’t quite won you over yet, I encourage you to taste some nettle tea for yourself. You may quickly be convinced, as I was, that this plant is well worth the hassle of cultivation – and perhaps the very occasional sting.
What is your favorite way to use stinging nettle? Tell us your thoughts in the comments below!
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